Wednesday, September 24, 2008

La Rentrée

"La Rentrée" is the French word that is used to describe going back to school in December. It's an official meaning, with a capital L and a capital R. In America, every school system decides what day is the first day. Not here. The entire country starts on the same day. This leads to, in my opinion, bedlam everywhere you look. But they are used to it so everyone just grumpily plods along that first week, traffic jams and long lines and hyper kids everywhere.

3 weeks after D-Day, I can barely keep it together. Everybody wants to learn English. Now. Everybody wants articles about je ne sais quoi translated. Now. Let's just say there's a reason why I haven't posted since Saturday!

Sunday we had a big American-style brunch with friends Emma and Florent, recently married this summer on the same day as my niece in America thus we couldn't attend their wedding. We enjoyed looking at photos of their ceremony and honeymoon (La Reunion and Ile Maurice - hmm, ring a bell, i.e. where WE were supposed to go before a mosquito epidemic thwarted us). All in all, a great visit over colored pancakes, syrup (bien sur!), bacon and poached eggs on English muffins, and for dessert, lemon meringue pie (I didn't make that, Emma did).

That afternoon Thomas took Estelle to the park and ran into our friends Helen and Jocelyn and their son Mael, who came back for tea and playtime since the weather was ominous. These are our friends who have a boat in Egypt (see the link to their blog on the sidebar).



Before they arrived from the park, I was home alone working on a translation when I heard some music from the street. Here's a video of the rando Spanish trumpet guy. Loved him! The video is so-so but the audio is pretty good. At the start he is picking up the money I had pitched at him from 5 stories up off my balcony. Also please note the dog at the socca restaurant who decides to accompany him. Olé!


In another news, Thomas celebrated his birthday on Monday. Turned the big "31". St. Mike's friends are rolling their eyes saying "she always did like a younger man". Hush up. As my aunt Becky says "Marry older if you marry for money, that way they die before you. Marry younger if you marry for love, then you die at the same time." She was joking because she married an older man whom she loved a lot, but it's a great saying and I whip it out frequently to defend myself. Plus I think one of my sister-in-laws would agree that it has no foundation!

I have no photos of a birthday party because it poured rain, but we did get a sitter that evening and go out to the movies at least! And ate, of all things, mini pots of Ben & Jerry's, which are for sale in the movie theater. I held court at the counter telling everyone within range just exactly where that ice cream came from. I thought they'd give it to us for free. Nope. But did get several extra napkins.
However, here is a video of some happy birthday wishes (to themselves) from the party we had been at on Saturday afternoon. No quiet times with this bunch. Yowza.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

The Birthday Party

Another weekend, another birthday.
Today was a party for the 3 other kids at Estelle's "nounou", Cathy. These are the 3 kids that have been full-time with Cathy for 2 years. Up to the recent start of the school year, Estelle "filled in" whenever one of the 3 wasn't there - a few mornings here, an afternoon there, etc. Now they have all turned 3 and this means going to school full-time (welcome to France).
Marie, whose grandfather hosted the party at his villa, no longer sees Cathy at all since she started school. Carlo, the Italian, goes to Cathy's everyday after school at 4:30 (yeah, no getting out at 2:45 in France!) and all day on Wednesdays (remember, so elementary school on Wednesdays in France). Mila's parents have opted for the half-day only, and so every day at 11:30 when all the kids go home for lunch, she goes to Cathy's for lunch and stays for the day.
These are a lot of choices. I have no idea what I'll do next year for Estelle. Cross that bridge later!

Here's Estelle enjoying the swing in Marie's Papie's yard.
The point is, Estelle loves these 3 kids, and all 3 of them turn 3 in September, so it was a big joint party. All 3 of them are also only children, so there are some sharing issues! Estelle was the model of perfection, of course!
There were gifts for everyone. For those of you that remember my gaffe at Christmastime with this same crowd (i.e. everyone gave presents to Estelle and all I brought was cookies), you can bet your bottom dollar I was not to be outdone THIS time. I came armed with a gift for all three of them AND cookies. Not just any gift - personalized photo frames with their names on them in 3-D and a photo of the 3 of them together that I had taken this summer at Cathy's. Everyone else's presents were toys essentially, and nothing educational. And to my EXTREME pleasure one of the kids' parents didn't bring a gift for Estelle thus I felt vindicated.


There were cakes galore. I sampled everything, bien sur.


We realized how nice it is to have a yard!

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

The Circus has come to Town

Sunday morning out little family went to the circus. This is the same circus went to last year, in a different part of the city. They offer open rehearsals for just 2 euros per adult - a big break off the regular price. And for a 2 year old, 30 minutes is just about the limit for sitting still. We went with Ines and her parents.

Here's Estelle's face when she saw the zebras:
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Whatever Estelle did, Ines did, and vice versa. So if her Daddy holds her, then my Daddy has to pick me up too......

And some big smelly elephants

Inside the show, a real Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom going on....

These girls truly enjoy each other.

Two Saturday nights ago was the annual festival on the Port of Nice. This was like a different kind of Circus, but, really it WAS a circus. The entire port is turned into a pedestrian zone, with a funky parade and a yummy food festival. Music and kids activities, etc. Then at 11 p.m. the big dance parties were to start. One of the biggest attractions at the start of the event (7 p.m.) is the Chef's Village. There are several stands and you pay 5 euros at any stand to have an individual portion of their one dish. These are not your local burrito houses - these are top-notch restaurants, including the ultra-famous Negresco hotel... We tried and enjoyed things we would never normally eat. Risotto something with saffran and something, anchoive blah blah blah and a sprig of god knows what floating around on a poached egg with creamed sole, vegetables stuffed with pureed something. It was fun.

Look closely and you'll see this ain't no American chew-chew festival - it wouldn't be French if you didn't have tables with white tablecloths and candles set up.

We had brought good old rice and peas from home for Estelle. We shared a table with some elderly people and their daughter (who herself was at least 55) and they were definitely in a different economic bracket than us. As a result we had the luck to have them offer us some of the things which they had bought so many of they couldn't eat. They were taken with Estelle but quite discreet about letting on just how taken they were with her. "How old is she?" the mother kept asking me. "Quite well behaved, quite well behaved." she would repeat this. Everytime she said this she'd push another portion of something our way. Then I brought out the big guns and told her I was one of 11. Always good if you want the entire table's conversation to stop. You know, they stop with their wine glass halfway raised to their mouth and say "Comment?" (this is another way of saying Excuse me?) 38 years old and I never get tired of it.

We were on our way home by 8:15, and watched the huge fireworks display from our balcony while Estelle was fast asleep.


Lots of weekend fun!

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Weekend off to a Good Start

Friday was a fun day for Estelle:
First, dressed for a stroll and a ride on the tram.

After nap, play date at home with Elliot and Mael, our little friend who sailed around in Dubai and Egypt with his parents on their dhow.


Today we discovered a beach we weren't familiar with: Plage de Darse in Villefranche. Tucked away beyond the old port of Villefranche, it was intriguing and fun - with a floating raft off the shore that you could swim out to.
Here's the walking path that leads to the beach.


Me out on the raft... The lighting makes it look like it's the end of the day but in fact it was 10 a.m.! Swimming out to this raft was a thrill for me - even though it wasn't that far really or that deep - but it did remind me of rafts at Shadow Lake in VT that we used to swim out to. Even sometimes the French Mediterranean can feel like home!

Estelle really felt independent today in the water with her "swimmies" on her arms - she did not want to hold onto us and twirled and turned in the water, giggling away.

As always, the huge cruise boats visible in the Villefranche bay - today's was called "Norwegian Gem". Thomas asked what "gem" meant in English. I said "bijoux". He said "But I thought that's what "jewel" was?" I realized that I don't know what the difference is between a gem and a jewel. In any event, it's the same word for both in French. This are the kinds of discussions you have on a Saturday morning on the beach in an international marriage. Never a dull moment.

A shipchandler at the Port.

Surfer's paradise?


Leaving to walk back to the car.

Yesterday when Elliot and Mael took out every toy, every book, every game, and every puzzle Estelle owns and then some, Estelle discovered a few things she didn't even know she had - like this decorative gift bag that looks like a teddy bear. Someone gave us a gift in it when Estelle was born, and I had it tucked into her bookcase as a cute backdrop to some books. Like I said, EVERYTHING got played with yesterday afternoon!

So today, she decided it was a hat. I came around the corner and found her just walking around the apartment with it on her head.


Sometimes, just the fake credit cards you get in the mail to promote something can provide hours of entertainment.

Who knows what fun tomorrow will bring!

Thursday, September 11, 2008

911


Hard to believe it's been 7 years.
Wondering how all those families, all those fathers, mothers, sisters, brothers and sons and daughters of all those people are holding up today.
Interestingly, so far, at 2 p.m. I have neither seen nor heard any mention of the anniversary over here in France, neither on the news or in emails or anything. Certainly must not be the case in America today.
I can almost feel the recycled cardboard ring around my Starbucks cup in my hand that I was holding in DC when I walked thru the glass doors at the office and my friend at work said "Look at this hoax photo on CNN of some plane hitting one of the twin towers".
On last year's blog I talked about what I did the night before the attacks - how I, like everyone, was having a casual Monday night, totally unaware of what some others had planned for the rest of the world just a few hours later.
When I was 22 years old in 1993 and living in New York, I worked in the World Trade Center in one of the towers as a temp. I worked on the 102nd floor for about 3 weeks for a company called Cantor Fitzgerald. I think I had to take 3 different elevators to get to work - I can barely remember. But I do recall the rush of energy when I would come up out of the 1 and the 9 subway from the Village, so many men in business suits and briefcases, long before the age of cell phones, hustling along, juggling their blue cups of deli take-out coffee. I was totally taken with it all and loved every second of my stint there. I was the one of two other women in this huge office of men on phones and staring at screens, hollering and bickering all day. Such a vibe I have rarely seen. It was, for that young Vermont girl, impressive. The take-out lunches and chopsticks and the reubens and pastrami sandwiches they would all eat at their desks. Totally enthralling, all of it. And all of it crashed down in a matter of seconds on this day.
Still shocking, 7 years later, and still sad.

Tuesday, September 09, 2008

Last Days of Summer

Here's a few shots of a trip to the beach last Sunday morning, Plage Passable, St. Jean Cap Ferrat....

Note the gigantic cruise ship in the bay behind Estelle and Thomas.


And a few from another beach trip a few weeks back in Villefranche...




This little boy in blue that we met at the beach, Samuel, took to Estelle's toys. He was 14 months old, his mother was 7 1/2 months pregnant. Yowza. Now that's just about Irish twins. Though she wasn't Irish, she was English. We had a nice chat.

One leftover shot from Estelle's birthday at Villefranche with Ines...

What does she do when she's not at the beach?

Get blue stuff on her face. Or, as illustrated below, dishevel the sofa. Note Winnie the Pooh and Mr. Potato Head are both victims of "The Couch Cushion Fort Gone Wrong"

Invite Ines over for a crackerjack play date:


When all else fails, there's always Daddy and Duplos....

Friday, September 05, 2008

The Yellow Cover

Two Christmases ago my sister Joan and I both submitted stories we had written to a competition for a Burlington Vermont blackbox theater's performance - "Winter Tales". They were both selected, along with 4 or 5 other "amateur" stories.

Mine was about sliding. Joan's was about a dream my mother had once. In the 50's, my Dad made her buy a $6.50 subscription to Nat'l Geographic, despite her insisting that the kids (around 5 or 7 were born at the time) needed new shoes, not literature. She had subsequently had a dream one night of her children clad in the Nat'l Geo yellow magazine covers instead of shoes, trodding thru the Vermont winter. While my story had been about snow, danger, ice, my brothers, speed, competition, and all-out thrill, Joan's story was about vision, hope, priorities, compromises, dreams in the night and dreams of what can be. She mentions in her story how, years later in the 70's, she herself happened to be quoted in a particular issue of National Geographic in which Vermont featured as one of the main pieces. There's much more to her story, but that is for another blog, perhaps.

I was not in VT 2 years ago for the performances that holiday season, but reports were favorable.

Just 3 days ago, I ran across the script from that performance here in my apt in Nice and re-read both our stories, being inspired to re-evaluate my "work" as I'm in the middle of reading Eudora Welty's "One Writer's Beginnings".

This morning I was pushing Estelle in her stroller doing errands when I saw a well-dressed and impeccably groomed older woman parading into the local thrift store carrying a box of toys. On the top, carefully nestled, I could spot a Lego Bucket. I followed her in. She handed the donation over to the lady running the shop. The shop owner clearly knew her, and greeted her graciously. I could see everything was in top condition. She clicked on her heels and left.

I said to the man working there who was starting to unpack the box "Could I see those Legos please?" I knew I had a bit of money on me and that was all since I was in fact on my way to the bank.

The counter lady sized up the bucket as I laid it in front of her and proclaimed "2 euros". Estelle started hollering "Legos!" for all concerned parties in the near vicinity. I balanced my bag on my thigh and dug for my change purse (because of course, 2 euros are coins, not bills). Something caught my eye below my leg. The oh-so-familiar yellow covers and spines of the National Geographic. "LEGOS" insisted Estelle. I pulled out my 2 coin piece. My eye went back to the yellow covers, haphazardly piled, spilling like dominos next to old handbags and eyeglass cases and clip-on earrings in the section next to the counter that is a bit of no-man's land. At this second glance, I could see they were all in English - surprising. And not glossy or recent.

I crouched down. Immediately the dates on all those spines jumped out at me - all early 70's. Before I even got my hand reached out to the issue on the top, I could see the spine on the one just below it, and the second word listing the issue's topics on the spine jumped out at me "VERMONT". July, 1974. I snatched it out from under and straightened myself up in one movement, like I had been shot out of a cannon. Some kind of sound came out of me, a sort of gasp, a cry, something, I wish I had a video. Estelle ceased clamouring for the Legos and stared at me. The ladies behind the counter followed suit. She who was still in the process of storing away my 2-euro coin looked at me. I know my mouth was open and I must have just raised my eyebrows or something. "Oh those little booklets are free with any purchase" she nodded at my prize. "Free?" I stammered. "Why yes, no one will pay for those. And they're not French."
I had recovered myself by then. "My sister is quoted in this!" I hollered to the store in general. "This is my state! My state Vermont, where I am from in America, see?" And I thrust the cover under her nose, jabbing at the headline for the article on the cover.

What they said or thought in response I'll never know because I didn't even stay to hear it. I was giddy, touched by the hand of fate, and turned clutching the magazine and my Lego Bucket to my breast. Out the door we went, and on the sidewalk I opened up the lightly musty pages, flipping thru until I landed on a photo that just said home. I didn't even need to look at the words. Like any true Yankee, I recognize home when I see it. There it was, pages and pages of home, 35 years ago home. Green, and white steeples, peaked roofs, cows, the steam of sugarhouses, and fiery opinions.

Soon I was on the phone to Joan, calling her at dawn to discuss. Like me, she believes our father drops in now and again when he sees fit. I'm quite sure I've seen him more than once in the form of a moose (laugh if you will, but until you're staring down a moose in your own driveway for several minutes, you may not comment). One time in fact she was with me. When I recounted her my events of this morning, she said with a matter-of-fact lilt "Well, THAT'S Dad." She said it to no one in particular over that phone line I suppose, because of course I already knew.

Now of course I wonder, where did they come from? Who is somewhere near this little shop, off the beaten tourism track, in Nice, France, that had a stock of early 1970's National Geographics in English? I would love to know.

No matter. I've had a spring in my step all day, grateful for whoever that brought home a little closer to me in such a delightful and clever fashion.

Wednesday, September 03, 2008

A Musical Strain in the Family

Though I have not been blessed with the same amazing musical talents as many of my siblings (i.e. you know who you are, me with lessons for 7 years and not much to show for it and you do nothing and you're like George Winston, you bum!), I can hold my own.
Here's my daughter, showing she too likes a good tune.

Singing a traditional French children's rhyming marvel, entitled "Twirl around, Peanut" = Piroutte Cacahouette.....

Here are the words in French, and my translation in parentheses....
You see that Estelle, all by herself, is getting the gist of the first 3 verses!

Il était un petit homme (There was a little man)
Pirouette cacahuète
Il était un petit homme
Qui avait une drôle de maison (2x) (Who had a funny little house)

La maison est en carton (His house was made of cardboard)
Pirouette cacahuète
La maison est en carton
Les escaliers sont en papier (2x) (And the steps were made of paper)

Le facteur y est monté (The mailman went up them)
Pirouette cacahuète
Le facteur y est monté
Il s'est cassé le bout du nez (2x) (And he broke the end of his nose)

On lui a raccommodé (But we put him back together)
Pirouette cacahuète
On lui a raccommodé
Avec du joli fil doré (2x) (With some pretty golden string)

Le beau fil, il s'est cassé (The pretty string, it broke)
Pirouette cacahuète
Le beau fil, il s'est cassé
Le bout du nez s'est envolé (2x) (And the end of his nose went flying)

Un avion à réaction (An jet airplane)
Pirouette cacahuète
Un avion à réaction
A rattrapé le bout du nez (2x) (Caught the end of his nose)

Mon histoire est terminée (Now my story is finished)
Pirouette cacahuète
Mon histoire est terminée
Messieurs, mesdames applaudissez (2x) (Ladies and gentlemen, clap for me)


And here's some dance moves to an English cd of kids singing that I found in the library: