
Part of the allure of the French Riviera is Monaco, that oh-so-mythical principality just 25 minutes from us. As Thomas has been working there since last fall, we are getting to know it a little better outside of the realm of tourist.
But today Estelle and I spent 2.5 hours as true tourists. The Grimaldi Forum is home to the hot new international exposition of The Life and Times of Princess Grace, 25 years after her untimely death on the narrow Monegasque hills.
I have found many French people surprised when I told them how excited I, an American, was to go to the exhibit of the Princess of Monaco - then I remind them she was an American film star well before her crowning. You know, "Hitchcock, just for starters! High Noon, High Society!" I blurt out (all these "H" words, possibly they have no idea what I am saying). They all say "Ah, oui, oui, bien sur....". I in turn am surprised that I need to remind them of her life before. A testament to cultural ignorance on both our parts.
The 19 rooms of the exhibit are all that you would expect, glamourous, classy, elegant, interesting, poignant, detailed. And the gowns! The clothes, the shoes, the Hermes bags, the hats and gloves and bathing caps! All what I knew I would find.
What truly was a surprise, however, was that the woman apparently kept EVERYTHING - long before she was ever a star much less a Princess. There are telegrams and notes, even scrapbooks with things crudely taped into them like a little bulb and in her handwriting next to it "Light I took off the Tree at Parker's party". Or a half-empty pack of Wrigley's gum with a caption "Gum I got at the party." She was a sentimental packrat behind all that poise. Who knew.
Cases and cases of personal correspondence from Hitchcock, Sinatra, Princess Diana, Yul Brenner, her mother, her agent, her lawyers, Cary Grant, Greta Garbo, Josephine Baker--- it just goes on and on. But quite touchingly very intimate notes from the Prince as he awaited her in Monaco before their wedding, in his handwriting saying things like "I am counting the days, the minutes. I love you, Rainier." There's even a whole section about her affair with Oleg Cassini, long before she knew Rainier, and how it was discouraged as he was divorced and not Catholic.
In any event, you can't help but come away feeling a bit GLAM.
Thus, we had lunch with Papa on one of the 2 ports of Monaco. In the 2nd photo, you can see the Cathedral up high on the left, where Grace and Ranier were married, and where they are buried.

